Check out our DIY upgrades page here: Speaker Upgrades

Don’t see the model you own? Chances are, we’ve not yet looked at it yet, and you are welcome to send one in, given that all drivers are in good working order, and you give us a heads up.

There are a few models we’ve looked at and upgraded in the past, which we haven’t added to the site. However, not all of the models we’ve looked at were able to be upgraded either due to cost, size, driver issues, or even issues disassembling the speakers without risking damage.

Feel free to ask about your model if you don’t see it on the site.

No. There are often many differences between models that our kits do not account for with different models, even within the same brand or product line. Even small differences in cabinet design, driver materials, size or even placement will have an affect the speaker’s performance, and it will need a kit specific to that model in order to work as intended.

Unless the only difference between a “V1” and “V2” of a given speaker is a change in the crossover,  then the kit will not be compatible.

A kit developed for a 2-way bookshelf speaker will not be compatible with a 3-way tower speaker from the same line and vice versa.

There are a few exceptions, but they are very rare. (Ex: Klipsch RP 160M and RP 600M)

Like everything over the last few years, the effects of COVID and general inflation, along with rising cost of raw materials and shipping costs, have all gone up substantially over time. Some kits cost have gone up by 25-50% or more, than when a given video originally released. The older the video is, the more change will likely be.

We’ve had to adjust our prices accordingly over the last 3 years, just to keep up with the changing market prices. that we also have to pay for everything we provide in our kits, especially capacitors & coils.

Yes, we do ship all over the world! If you need assistance with shipping quotes, please make sure you provide all the items you would like to purchase and the full shipping address! We cannot give a shipping quote without this information. Thank you! 

No. Any local VAT, duty, taxes or Customs fees are NOT INCLUDED  in the cost for international orders.
You will need to factor this in to the cost of any product you wish to purchase.

Unfortunately, there is an issue with the amplifiers where they sometimes can’t quite handle 240V/50Hz mains power. Meaning, some amps are at risk of developing a permanent hum, which will require shipping the amplifier(s) to Rythmik for repair. But even then, they will still be at risk of developing the hum again even after the repair.

Rythmik has been working on a solution to the problem, but manufacturing & chip shortages have delayed their ability to roll out the necessary changes, so we don’t yet have a time frame on availability.

In the meantime, Rythmik has directly asked us not to ship their subwoofer amps outside of the US or North America.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Because it doesnt really mean anthing, beyond makreting.

The reality is, you’re much more likely to kill a speaker by over-driving (clipping) an underpowered amplifier than with a 2000W amp.  
With a high-wattage amp, you will reach the “threshold of pain” (115-140dB) long before the speakers give out. 

Generally, we recommend a minimum of 8-10W, but you also need to consider how loud you want to listen, the size of your room, and the effeciency of your speakers. The larger the room, and the lower the effeciency, the more power you will need.

For reference, here’s the amount of power we recommend for 87-90dB effecient speakers in some basic room sizes: 

Desktop/nearfield: 3-10+W
10’x12′ (Bedroom) : 8-10+W
15’x20′ : 10-50+W
20’x30′ :  50-100+W
Open floor: 75+W

In general, you’re always better off with more power than not enough.

First thing we do when a speaker get sent to us is to test the stock performance of the speaker. Measuing it’s on and off-axis response along with spectral decay and impedance. This tells us a lot about the good and bad of a given speaker, crossover implimentation, and if there are issues with the drivers themselves, or with the ports/cabinet design. then we will send the measurements to the customer and let them know our thoughs on the speaker and seeing what we can do with it based on what we’re seeing.

Some speakers never make it past this point, either due to the number/severty of issues that cannot be addressed by the crossover. (e.g. driver ringing/edge diffraction) Sometimes the issue may be the speaker in question is simply too small, and in other cases it will be too difficult to disassemble the speaker without risking damage to the drivers, cabinet, or trim.  In some cases the customer simply decides not to pursue an upgrade.

Next,with the cusomter’s apporval, we will then disassemble the speaker and run wires directly from the drivers out the port or back panel of the speaker. This allows us to measure the raw performance of the drivers.

From there, we begin externally designing the new crossover by using components connected together by alligator clips, & and taking new on-axis measurements with each change, until we finally get to a reasonable response. Next will be to quickly check the vertical or horizontal axis to asses any issues that may arrise with the phase of the drivers in the off-axis, as well as to check for issues with edge diffraction.
We will then make any further adjustments needed to account for the above issues.
we will often also check the impedance to see if the impedance is balanced or that some part of the filter doesnt cause a big dip in the impedance.

When we are happy with the on-axis, impedance and rough off-axis results, we will run our full suite of measure with the new crossover. After printing off paper copies of the results, we then draw out the schematic and then figure out the amount of wire and/or Norez necessary for the speaker and calulate the total cost for the kit.

we will then notify the customer and send them the new results, along with the cost of the kit. (calculating shipping costs later after everthing it boxed.)

The last few steps are to make a digital drawing of the schematic & parts list, possibly shoot a video, and then get the product page set up on the website.

We don’t know, we’re not psychic, so here is the deal. It’s like asking a auto mechanic how much it will cost to fix your car, but your car is still at home. He doesnt know what is wrong with it until its in the shop and he’s had time to look it over.

It’s the same with upgrading speakers.

In order for us to tell you anything about your speakers we need one of them here. That means, you must ship one to us. If you send us an email asking us how much it will cost to upgrade your speakers and hope we can just guess what it needs and what it will cost, it’s gonna be a waste of time for both of us. If you still have questions, then send us an email.

If you want a rough estimate, looks at the cost of upgrading similar size or brand  models. The bigger the speaker is, and more drivers and/or issues it has, it will cost more. A 3-way tower with 5 drivers will cost more than a small 2-way bookshelf.

Plus you will need to factor in the shipping cost of the speaker to us and back to you, which also depends on the size/weight of the speaker. (The bigger it is, make sure it is well packed to avoid damage in shipping.)

There are a few reasons for this:

1. We don’t own an anechoic chamber, so we use a gated time window of 4 milliseconds. This removes any & all room reflections from the measurement, giving us an anechoic measurement. The primary limitation is that it is only accurate to 200Hz. To accurately measure below 200Hz, we will need to take a nearfield measurements.
2. Your room, and the placement of yourself and the speakers within your room has the biggest influence on the sound of your speakers, especially below 200Hz, where room modes will begin to dominate the response, creating massive dips & peaks. Room treatment is the only real means to remedy those kinds of issues.
3. For our upgrade kits, the bass response is already determined by the manufacturer. Tuning for the bass of a speaker is determined via the driver, box size and port used when the manufacturer designed the speaker. We cannot change any of that. If there are issues, they were already present in the original speaker. Plus as frequencies get lower, the parts needed to make those adjustments only get larger and expensive… so there’s no real means to fix it, just get a different speaker.
4. For our own kits, we use the T/S parameters of the woofer(s) to calculate the necessary box volume and/or port dimensions needed for the desired tuning frequency. These calculations have been standard practice for determining box size for a long time, and the effects of an over/undersized boxes are already known.

Unfortunately not. We simply dont have the time or space to build such a large rig to test those kinds of speakers.

In-wall speakers requires a test bench that mimics the environment in which they are intended to be used, as the wall/ceiling is now just as much a part of the speaker as the box is for a traditional tower or bookshelf. They would measure very differently if they weren’t mounted into a wall, and trying to design a crossover in an open-air environment will only leade to poor results once it is finally mounted into the wall.

Such test benches will need to not only be quite large, but also modular to account for the varietly of different sizes and shapes that a given in-wall/ceiling speakers are made into.

While we’re always thinking about a new potential speaker kits, we dont currently have any specific plans for another line-source speaker at this time.

Line-source speakers are quite expensive to develop due to the number of drivers they require, which often means custom drivers as well, further increasing development costs.

We’ve already got many other ideas in the pipeline, but at some point in the future, we may revisit this project.

What about the Line-Force speaker? 

When BG was bought out by Christie Digital, all of their drivers became unavailable to the OEM and retail markets. Any remaining drivers still on the market rapidly became much more expensive, so that project was ended with only 3-4 units ever built.

We’ve looked at some alternatives and even having custom versions made, similar to our own GR Neo3 tweeters, but none of the prototypes or alternatives we tested met our needs, especially with the PDR technology still under patent.

Radian’s new LM10 shows promise, but we don’t have any plans to design a new model around them at this time.

Unfortunately, we cannot make them.
However, we can get you the necessary information needed to make them.

There are 3 things we will need to know when helping you make a high-pass filter:

• Input impedance of your power amp (typically 10,000-100,000 ohm)
• Desired -3dB roll-off point (Ex: 40Hz, 70Hz)
• RCA or XLR

This will allow us to calculate the capacitor value needed for your desired roll off.
The values are quite small, and we always recommend getting the best quality capacitor you can as your entire signal is passing through this capacitor. We typically recommend copper-foil caps like Miflex KPCU03 or KFPM or from other notable brands like Deulund JDM, Jupiter, V-Cap etc depending on the sound you are shooting for.

Note:

If you change amplifiers, the filters will need to change as well.
The capacitor value will need to be adjusted according to the input impedance of the new amplifier.

High-pass filters cannot be used with integrated amplifiers. (Unless they are connected to a separate preamp or power amplifier(s))

AV-Receivers typically have a high-pass filter already built into them by setting the speaker size to “small.” Some my also offer edjustable roll off points. recommended range is 70Hz for bookshelf speakers, and 40-60 lower for large tower speakers.

No. We do not sell the schematics on their own. We pick the parts to get you the best performance for your money, and some parts you may be interested in using may be more of a lateral movement than an upgrade. There may be some cases where you would be getting more performance, but in most cases they are just “different” rather than better.

If you need to save on international shipping costs, we can remove the No-Rez upon request to help bring down the shipping costs, VAT or duty.