Wait! Before you CALL or EMAIL, read the FAQ!

Please read the FAQ below before contacting us. If required, just give us a call at 1-940-592-3400. We start answering calls after 10:00 am CST. You can also email us using the form below. We try to respond to emails as quickly as possible. Typical turnaround time is 24-48 hours.

What time can I call you?
You can give us a call anytime after 10:00 am Central Standard Time. We typically stop taking calls around 6pm CST.
Do you have an upgrade kit available for my speaker?

Check out our DIY upgrades page here: Speaker Upgrades

Don’t see the model you own? Chances are, we’ve not yet looked at it yet, and you are welcome to send one in, given that all drivers are in good working order, and you give us a heads up.

There are a few models we’ve looked at and upgraded in the past, which we haven’t added to the site. However, not all of the models we’ve looked at were able to be upgraded either due to cost, size, driver issues, or even issues disassembling the speakers without risking damage.

Feel free to ask about your model if you don’t see it on the site.

Will a kit for one speaker be compatible with other speakers from the same brand or product line?

No. There are often many differences between models that our kits do not account for with different models, even within the same brand or product line. Even small differences in cabinet design, driver materials, size or even placement will have an affect the speaker’s performance, and it will need a kit specific to that model in order to work as intended.

Unless the only difference between a “V1” and “V2” of a given speaker is a change in the crossover,  then the kit will not be compatible.

A kit developed for a 2-way bookshelf speaker will not be compatible with a 3-way tower speaker from the same line and vice versa.

There are a few exceptions, but they are very rare. (Ex: Klipsch RP 160M and RP 600M)

Why are the prices on your site higher than the cost stated in the videos?

Like everything over the last few years, the effects of COVID and general inflation, along with rising cost of raw materials and shipping costs, have all gone up substantially over time. Some kits cost have gone up by 25-50% or more, than when a given video originally released. The older the video is, the more change will likely be.

We’ve had to adjust our prices accordingly over the last 3 years, just to keep up with the changing market prices. that we also have to pay for everything we provide in our kits, especially capacitors & coils.

Do you ship Internationally?

Yes, we do ship all over the world! If you need assistance with shipping quotes, please make sure you provide all the items you would like to purchase and the full shipping address! We cannot give a shipping quote without this information. Thank you! 

Is VAT/Duty included in the cost of international shipping?

No. Any local VAT, duty, taxes or Customs fees are NOT INCLUDED  in the cost for international orders.
You will need to factor this in to the cost of any product you wish to purchase.

Why are your subwoofer kits not available for 240V regions?

Unfortunately, there is an issue with the amplifiers where they sometimes can’t quite handle 240V/50Hz mains power. Meaning, some amps are at risk of developing a permanent hum, which will require shipping the amplifier(s) to Rythmik for repair. But even then, they will still be at risk of developing the hum again even after the repair.

Rythmik has been working on a solution to the problem, but manufacturing & chip shortages have delayed their ability to roll out the necessary changes, so we don’t yet have a time frame on availability.

In the meantime, Rythmik has directly asked us not to ship their subwoofer amps outside of the US or North America.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Can you repair my speaker or drivers?
Unfortnately we are not set up to repair damaged or worn out drivers.
We also do not stock replacement drivers for any speakers other than our own products, you will need to find OEM or used replacement drivers for the best results.
You will be best served finding a reputable repair shop.
Can you upgrade my crossover?
So, you want to upgrade all those cheesy parts? Sure, we can supply you with everything that you need, but before you send us an email asking how much, you must send us one of your crossovers or a schematic!
We need to know every value for every component, as well as the components diagram so we can supply you with the necessary components for you to rebuild the networks for your speakers.
Be aware that in most cases, the new components will not fit onto the original circuit boards. You can use 1/4 plywood, pegboard or breadboards to assemble the new crossovers to.
We can also supply any amount wire needed as well as a set of tube connectors or sheet(s) of NoRez to further improve your speaker’s performance.
Why don't you list the power handling on your kits?

Because it doesnt really mean anthing, beyond makreting.

The reality is, you’re much more likely to kill a speaker by over-driving (clipping) an underpowered amplifier than with a 2000W amp.  
With a high-wattage amp, you will reach the “threshold of pain” (115-140dB) long before the speakers give out. 

Generally, we recommend a minimum of 8-10W, but you also need to consider how loud you want to listen, the size of your room, and the effeciency of your speakers. The larger the room, and the lower the effeciency, the more power you will need.

For reference, here’s the amount of power we recommend for 87-90dB effecient speakers in some basic room sizes: 

Desktop/nearfield: 3-10+W
10’x12′ (Bedroom) : 8-10+W
15’x20′ : 10-50+W
20’x30′ :  50-100+W
Open floor: 75+W

In general, you’re always better off with more power than not enough.

How do you design your speaker upgrades?

First thing we do when a speaker get sent to us is to test the stock performance of the speaker. Measuing it’s on and off-axis response along with spectral decay and impedance. This tells us a lot about the good and bad of a given speaker, crossover implimentation, and if there are issues with the drivers themselves, or with the ports/cabinet design. then we will send the measurements to the customer and let them know our thoughs on the speaker and seeing what we can do with it based on what we’re seeing.

Some speakers never make it past this point, either due to the number/severty of issues that cannot be addressed by the crossover. (e.g. driver ringing/edge diffraction) Sometimes the issue may be the speaker in question is simply too small, and in other cases it will be too difficult to disassemble the speaker without risking damage to the drivers, cabinet, or trim.  In some cases the customer simply decides not to pursue an upgrade.

Next,with the cusomter’s apporval, we will then disassemble the speaker and run wires directly from the drivers out the port or back panel of the speaker. This allows us to measure the raw performance of the drivers.

From there, we begin externally designing the new crossover by using components connected together by alligator clips, & and taking new on-axis measurements with each change, until we finally get to a reasonable response. Next will be to quickly check the vertical or horizontal axis to asses any issues that may arrise with the phase of the drivers in the off-axis, as well as to check for issues with edge diffraction.
We will then make any further adjustments needed to account for the above issues.
we will often also check the impedance to see if the impedance is balanced or that some part of the filter doesnt cause a big dip in the impedance.

When we are happy with the on-axis, impedance and rough off-axis results, we will run our full suite of measure with the new crossover. After printing off paper copies of the results, we then draw out the schematic and then figure out the amount of wire and/or Norez necessary for the speaker and calulate the total cost for the kit.

we will then notify the customer and send them the new results, along with the cost of the kit. (calculating shipping costs later after everthing it boxed.)

The last few steps are to make a digital drawing of the schematic & parts list, possibly shoot a video, and then get the product page set up on the website.

How do you know your "upgrades" will improve my speakers?
We get this question a lot and we understand where it’s coming from. You want to know what makes one variety of components better than another, and how the kits we offer are any better than what the manufacturer designed and intended.
It’s like asking a local baker if his product is better than the big commerical baker across town, and how he knows his hand-selected ingredients are any better.
Just like any such baker, we have spent countless hours or many years working with many varieties of such “ingredients,” and we know without reservation that what we provide will indeed make an improvement to the sound of your speakers, especially beyond just the measurements. 
We know that cheap “ingredients” will make for a mediocre product, and thats what mass manufacturer provides. We also know that just because one brand or variety of component is more expensive thasn others doesn’t always make it “better” than a chaper one. Having built that experience over time allows us to know what to look for and how our components will affect a speakers performance. 
We’ve tried and compared a large variety of components over the years spanning differences in price, materials, combination etc, and we’ve felt on what we felt offered the best performance for the money.
On occasion, we will find that one component is better than the ones we typically use, and other times they’re not really better or worse, just “different.” (losing something in one area but gaining something else in another)
Then the next factor is cost-to-performance. Is the difference in price worth the gains being made? Not everyone is willing to pay $300+ for a single driver, capacitor or inductor, no matter how much better it may be than a $50 equivalent.
All you do is make a flat line! Flat speakers are boring!
“Flat” isn’t really the correct word. Sure, it describes the measured line itself, but that’s only one piece of a larger puzzle. It doesn’t give you any information about how a speaker sounds other than the output level at a given frequency.  It’s why we also look at the off-axis measurements, along with spectral decay, & impedance measurements to get a better picture of how a speaker performs, and any issues it or the drivers may have.
A neutral, balanced or accurate tone is what we’re always aiming for. A tweeter with a +3dB boost, and a -5db hole at the crossover point isn’t neutral, balanced or accurate. especially to the file you’re playing back, it’s only adding to or taking away from the source.

A boosted treble may seem “exciting” or “detailed” at first, but it wont be long before listening fatigue sets in, and your ears start ringing. The same goes for a speaker with a lumpy response full of peaks, dips, breakup, stored energy, or even cabinet resonances; none of that was ever a part of the original signal.

Good crossover and speaker design is all about getting out of the way of the signal, and allowing you to hear the music as it was intended, as though the speakers aren’t there at all.
What will it cost to upgrade my speakers?

We don’t know, we’re not psychic, so here is the deal. It’s like asking a auto mechanic how much it will cost to fix your car, but your car is still at home. He doesnt know what is wrong with it until its in the shop and he’s had time to look it over.

It’s the same with upgrading speakers.

In order for us to tell you anything about your speakers we need one of them here. That means, you must ship one to us. If you send us an email asking us how much it will cost to upgrade your speakers and hope we can just guess what it needs and what it will cost, it’s gonna be a waste of time for both of us. If you still have questions, then send us an email.

If you want a rough estimate, looks at the cost of upgrading similar size or brand  models. The bigger the speaker is, and more drivers and/or issues it has, it will cost more. A 3-way tower with 5 drivers will cost more than a small 2-way bookshelf.

Plus you will need to factor in the shipping cost of the speaker to us and back to you, which also depends on the size/weight of the speaker. (The bigger it is, make sure it is well packed to avoid damage in shipping.)

Can you install your upgrades for me?
The short answer is no. We send out a schematic for all our kits and upgrades with all the necessary components, wire etc to solder it together. We don’t have the time or staff needed to build crossovers at this time.
We do have two people on our Forums who offer crossover assembly for our customers, Elon & Frederick.
You can see some of their work at the links below:
Why don't you measure below 200Hz?

There are a few reasons for this:

  1. We don’t own an anechoic chamber, so we use a gated time window of 4 milliseconds. This removes any & all room reflections from the measurement, giving us an anechoic measurement. The primary limitation is that it is only accurate to 200Hz. To accurately measure below 200Hz, we will need to take a nearfield measurements.
  2. Your room, and the placement of yourself and the speakers within your room has the biggest influence on the sound of your speakers, especially below 200Hz, where room modes will begin to dominate the response, creating massive dips & peaks. Room treatment is the only real means to remedy those kinds of issues.
  3. For our upgrade kits, the bass response is already determined by the manufacturer. Tuning for the bass of a speaker is determined via the driver, box size and port used when the manufacturer designed the speaker. We cannot change any of that. If there are issues, they were already present in the original speaker. Plus as frequencies get lower, the parts needed to make those adjustments only get larger and expensive… so there’s no real means to fix it, just get a different speaker.
  4. For our own kits, we use the T/S parameters of the woofer(s) to calculate the necessary box volume and/or port dimensions needed for the desired tuning frequency. These calculations have been standard practice for determining box size for a long time, and the effects of an over/undersized boxes are already known.
Can you upgrade my in-wall or in-ceiling speakers?

Unfortunately not. We simply dont have the time or space to build such a large rig to test those kinds of speakers.

In-wall speakers requires a test bench that mimics the environment in which they are intended to be used, as the wall/ceiling is now just as much a part of the speaker as the box is for a traditional tower or bookshelf. They would measure very differently if they weren’t mounted into a wall, and trying to design a crossover in an open-air environment will only leade to poor results once it is finally mounted into the wall.

Such test benches will need to not only be quite large, but also modular to account for the varietly of different sizes and shapes that a given in-wall/ceiling speakers are made into.

I have an old speaker, can I just reuse the box with your drivers?
The short answer is no.
While it’s not exactly “rocket science”, it’s also not that easy to just drop in different drivers and have things workout as intended.
Here’s several of the issues you will run into more than 90% of the time:
  • The drivers will not fit the holes already in the box.
  • The air space of the box may be too big or too small for the woofer you want to use.
  • Port length is not tuned for our woofer in your box.

If by some chance all of the new drivers do fit the old holes and the box is the right size:

  • The old, stock crossover doesn’t account for any differences in acoustic output, or electrical parameters between the old and new drivers.
  • Driver spacing, as well as cabinet size/shape will also affect the response.

It’s very much a “Cinderella” problem. (Looking for a “Cinderella” to fit your “slipper”)

Reality its, your best option is to find OEM replacements and harvest working drivers from a donor speaker, or simply start over with one of our kits.

Even with the 2 speaker kits where we use our drivers as replacements for the originals, the old crossover still needed to be completely re-designed to make them work. Adapter rings also needed to be made to allow the woofers to fit the old holes.

So unless you have the necessary tools and skills to work around those problems you’re best starting over.

When will you release another line-source speaker kit?

While we’re always thinking about a new potential speaker kits, we dont currently have any specific plans for another line-source speaker at this time.

Line-source speakers are quite expensive to develop due to the number of drivers they require, which often means custom drivers as well, further increasing development costs.

We’ve already got many other ideas in the pipeline, but at some point in the future, we may revisit this project.

What about the Line-Force speaker? 

When BG was bought out by Christie Digital, all of their drivers became unavailable to the OEM and retail markets. Any remaining drivers still on the market rapidly became much more expensive, so that project was ended with only 3-4 units ever built.

We’ve looked at some alternatives and even having custom versions made, similar to our own GR Neo3 tweeters, but none of the prototypes or alternatives we tested met our needs, especially with the PDR technology still under patent.

Radian’s new LM10 shows promise, but we don’t have any plans to design a new model around them at this time.

I want to use a high-pass filter on my system. Do you make them? What information do you need?

Unfortunately, we cannot make them.
However, we can get you the necessary information needed to make them.

There are 3 things we will need to know when helping you make a high-pass filter:

  • Input impedance of your power amp (typically 10,000-100,000 ohm)
  • Desired -3dB roll-off point (Ex: 40Hz, 70Hz)
  • RCA or XLR

This will allow us to calculate the capacitor value needed for your desired roll off.
The values are quite small, and we always recommend getting the best quality capacitor you can as your entire signal is passing through this capacitor. We typically recommend copper-foil caps like Miflex KPCU03 or KFPM or from other notable brands like Deulund JDM, Jupiter, V-Cap etc depending on the sound you are shooting for.


If you change amplifiers, the filters will need to change as well.
The capacitor value will need to be adjusted according to the input impedance of the new amplifier.

High-pass filters cannot be used with integrated amplifiers. (Unless they are connected to a separate preamp or power amplifier(s))

AV-Receivers typically have a high-pass filter already built into them by setting the speaker size to “small.” Some my also offer edjustable roll off points. recommended range is 70Hz for bookshelf speakers, and 40-60 lower for large tower speakers.

Is the price for one speaker or the pair?
Heck, if we got a dollar every time someone asked this question, we would buy every Klipsch speaker ever made, fix em’ all and make a killing! Seriously though, unless its a center channel (duh), the price you pay for any kit or upgrade is for… the PAIR!
Can I buy just the schematic for your upgrade kits?

No. We do not sell the schematics on their own. We pick the parts to get you the best performance for your money, and some parts you may be interested in using may be more of a lateral movement than an upgrade. There may be some cases where you would be getting more performance, but in most cases they are just “different” rather than better.

If you need to save on international shipping costs, we can remove the No-Rez upon request to help bring down the shipping costs, VAT or duty.

11 + 14 =