Wait! Before you CALL or EMAIL, read the FAQ!

Please read the FAQ below before contacting us. If required, just give us a call at 1-940-592-3400. We start answering calls after 10:00 am CST. You can also email us using the form below. We try to respond to emails as quickly as possible. Typical turnaround time is 24-48 hours.

What time can I call you?
You can give us a call anytime after 10:00 am Central Standard Time. We typically stop taking calls around 6pm CST.
Is the price for one speaker or the pair?
Heck, if we got a dollar every time someone asked this question, we would buy every Klipsch speaker ever made, fix em’ all and make a killing! Seriously though, unless its a center channel (duh), the price you pay for any kit or upgrade is for… the PAIR!
Can I buy just the schematic for your upgrade kits?

No. We do not sell the schematics on their own. We pick the parts to get you the best performance for your money, and some parts you may be interested in using may be more of a lateral movement than an upgrade. There may be some cases where you would be getting more performance, but in most cases they are just “different” rather than better.

If you need to save on international shipping costs, we can remove the No-Rez upon request to help bring down the shipping costs, VAT or duty.

Will a kit for one speaker be compatible with other speakers from the same brand or product line?

No. There are often many differences between models that our kits do not account for with different models, even within the same brand or product line. Even small differences in cabinet design, driver materials, size and even placement will have an affect the speaker’s performance, and it will need a kit specific to that model in order to work as intended.

Unless the only difference between a “V1” and “V2” of a given speaker is an internal change to the crossover,  then the kit will not be compatible.

A kit developed for a 2-way bookshelf speaker will not be compatible with a 3-way tower speaker from the same line and vice versa.

There are a few exceptions, but they are very rare. (Ex: Klipsch RP 160M and RP 600M)

In-Wall/ceiling speaker will have a very different crossover to an equivalent tower model, even if the drivers are identical, and cannot be used interchangably.

Do you ship Internationally?

Yes, we do ship all over the world! If you need assistance with shipping quotes, please make sure you provide all the items you would like to purchase and the full shipping address! We cannot give a shipping quote without this information. Thank you! 

Is VAT/Duty included in the cost of international shipping?

No. Any local VAT, duty, taxes or Customs fees are NOT INCLUDED in the cost for international orders.
You will need to factor this in to the cost of any product you wish to purchase.

Do you have an upgrade kit available for my speaker?

Check out our DIY upgrades page here: Speaker Upgrades

Don’t see the model you own? Chances are, we’ve not yet looked at it yet, and you are welcome to send one in, given that all drivers are in good working order, and you give us a heads up.

There are a few models we’ve looked at and upgraded in the past, which we haven’t added to the site. However, not all of the models we’ve looked at were able to be upgraded either due to cost, size, driver issues, or even issues disassembling the speakers without risking damage.

Feel free to ask about your model if you don’t see it on the site.

Can you repair my speaker or drivers?
Unfortnately, we are not set up to repair damaged or worn out drivers.
We also do not stock replacement drivers for any speakers other than our own products, you will need to find OEM or used replacement drivers for the best results.
You will be best served finding a reputable repair shop.
Can you upgrade just my crossover?
So, you want to upgrade all those cheesy parts on the original crossover? Sure, we can supply you with everything that you need, but before you send us an email asking how much, you must send us one of your crossovers, or a schematic for your model!
We need to know the values for every component, as well as the diagram so we can supply you with the necessary components for you to rebuild the networks for your speakers.
If you cannot find a schematic online, you will have to send one of the crossovers to us. (Some larger models may have more than one crossover board.)
That way we can map out your crossover, and measure any components such as inductois which dont have their measurements listed.
Be aware that in most cases, the new components will not fit onto the original circuit boards. You can use 1/4 plywood, pegboard or breadboards to assemble the new crossovers to.
We can also supply any amount wire needed as well as a set of tube connectors or sheet(s) of NoRez to further improve your speaker’s performance.
I want to build a speaker, can you design a crossover for me?

Sure! The only way we can design a crossover for your custom speaker is to send us one fully assembled speaker, with the drivers installed into the cabinet.

That way we can see the exact meaurements of your drivers in the final cabinet.

Be aware it’s possible that additional changes may need to be made to your cabinet and/or drivers. This is especially true if the drivers are too far apart, have too many issues, or if the drivers can’t reach one another.

Also be aware that any changes to the drivers, their spacing, or cabinet’s design will require further changes to the crossover to acount for differences in acoustic output.

Can you calculate a crossover for my drivers?

Simply Put, no.

We do not use crossover calulators as they do not take into acount several factors that will have a big impact on the crossover design of:

Baffle-step loss
Edge Diffraction
Time/phase alignment
Driver spacing
Driver output

All of those factors play a part in the design process of a speaker. Without being able to account for all of those factors, designing a proper crossover with a calulator is, at best, a shot in the dark.

A lot of the same issues can arrise when using crossover design software like XSim. Unless you properly measure the drivers with a calibrated microphone, and have a means to accurately time-align the drivers, it’s likely that your crossovers will not be properly in phase with one another when you measure the actual speaker with the designed crossover installed.

Why are the prices on your site higher than the cost stated in the videos?

Like everything over the last few years, the effects of COVID 19, general inflation, along with the rising costs of raw materials and shipping; most everything gone up substantially over time. For some kits, the total cost has gone up by 25-50% or more than when a given video originally released.

The older the video is, the more drastic the change in price will be.

We’ve had to adjust our prices a few times the last 3 years, just to keep up with the changing market prices for shipping and all of the parts for our kits and upgrades, especially capacitors & coils.

How do you design your speaker upgrades?

First thing we do when a speaker gets sent to us is to test the stock performance of the speaker; measuing it’s on-axis and off-axis responses, along with spectral decay and impedance. This tells us a lot about the good and bad of a given speaker, crossover implimentation, and if there are issues with the drivers themselves, or with the ports/cabinet design. From there, we will send the measurements to the customer and let them know our thoughs on the speaker and seeing what we believe can do with it based on what we’re seeing.

Some speakers never make it past this point, either due to the number/severty of issues that cannot be addressed by the crossover. (e.g. driver ringing,edge diffraction etc) Sometimes the issues may be the speaker in question is simply too small, and in other cases it will be too difficult to disassemble the speaker without risking damage to the drivers, cabinet, or trim.  In some cases the customer simply decides not to pursue an upgrade.

Follwing the cusomter’s apporval, we will then disassemble the speaker and run wires directly from the drivers out the port or back panel of the speaker. This allows us to measure the raw performance of the drivers. which lets us know the actual capabilities of each driver and where we should naturally be able to cross each driver.

From there, we begin externally designing the new crossover by using components connected together by alligator clips, & and taking new on-axis measurements with each change, until we finally get to a desired, smooth response. Next will be to quickly check the vertical or horizontal axis to asses any issues that may arrise with the phase relation of the drivers in the off-axis, as well as to check for issues with edge diffraction, ringing, etc.
We will then make any further adjustments needed to account for the above issues.
Lastly, we will also check the impedance to see if the impedance is properly balanced or and doesnt have any dips that could cause issues with amplifiers.

When we are happy with the on-axis, impedance and rough off-axis results, we will run our full suite of measure with the new crossover. After printing off paper copies of the measurements, we then draw out the schematic and then figure out the amount of wire and/or NoRez necessary for the speaker, and calulate the total cost for the kit.

Finally, will then notify the customer and send them the new results, along with the cost of the kit. (calculating shipping costs later after everthing is boxed.)

The last few steps are to make a digital drawing of the schematic & parts list, possibly shoot a video, and then get the product page set up on the website.

Why are your subwoofer kits not available for 240V regions?

Unfortunately, there is an issue with the amplifiers where they sometimes can’t quite handle 240V/50Hz mains power. Meaning, some amps are at risk of developing a permanent hum, which will require shipping the amplifier(s) to Rythmik for repair. But even then, they will still be at risk of developing the hum again even after the repair.

Rythmik has been working on a solution to the problem, but manufacturing & chip shortages have delayed their ability to roll out the necessary changes, so we don’t yet have a time frame on availability.

In the meantime, Rythmik has directly asked us not to ship their subwoofer amps outside of the US or North America.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

All you do is make a flat line! Flat speakers are boring!
“Flat” isn’t really the correct word… Sure, you can have speakers that measure “flat” and sound dull/lifeless just as you can have speakers that measure “flat” but are still dynamic and exciting. “Flat” describes the measured line itself, but that’s only one piece of a larger puzzle.
A frequency response graph alone doesn’t give you any information about how a speaker sounds other than the output level at a given frequency. It’s why we also look at the off-axis measurements, along with spectral decay, & impedance measurements to get a better picture of how a speaker performs, and any issues it or the drivers may have.
A neutral, balanced or accurate response is what we’re always aiming for. A tweeter with a 3dB boost, and a -5db hole at the crossover point isn’t neutral, balanced or accurate. A boosted treble may seem “exciting” or “detailed” at first, but it wont be long before listening fatigue sets in, and your ears start ringing. The same goes for a speaker with a lumpy response full of peaks, dips, breakup, stored energy, or even cabinet resonances; none of that was ever a part of the original recording.
Good crossover and speaker design is all about getting out of the way of the signal, allowing you to hear the music as it was intended, and as if the speakers aren’t there at all.
Why don't you list the power handling on your kits?

Because it doesnt really mean much.

The reality is, you’re much more likely to kill a speaker by over-driving (clipping) an low-powered amplifier than by cranking a 2000W ampifier.
With a high-wattage amp, you will reach your ears’ “threshold of pain” (~115+dB) long before the speakers give out.

Generally, we recommend a minimum of 8-10W, but you also need to consider how loud you want to listen, the size of your room, and the effeciency of your speakers. The larger the room, and the lower the effeciency, the more power you will need.

For reference, here’s the minimum wattages we recommend for 87-90dB effecient speakers in some basic room sizes:

Desktop/nearfield: 3-10+W
10’x12′ (Bedroom) : 8-10+W
15’x20′ : 10-50+W
20’x30′ :  50-100+W
Large/Open floor: 75+W

In general, you’re always better off with more power than not enough.

How do you know your "upgrades" will improve my speakers?
We get this question a lot and we understand where it’s coming from. You want to know what makes one variety of components better than another, and how the kits we offer are any better than what the manufacturer designed and intended.
It’s like asking a local baker if his product is better than the big commerical bakery across town, and how he knows his hand-selected ingredients are any better.
Just like any such baker, we have spent countless hours over many years working with many varieties of said “ingredients,” and we know without hesitation that what we provide will indeed bring an big improvement to the sound of your speakers, especially beyond just the measurements.
We know that cheap “ingredients” will make for a mediocre product, and that’s often what a mass manufacturer provides. We also know that just because one brand or variety of component is more expensive than another doesn’t always make it “better” than a chaper one. Having built that experience over time allows us to know what to look for and how our components will affect a speakers performance.
We’ve tried and compared a large variety of components over the years, spanning differences in price, materials, combination etc, and we’ve selected those products on what we felt offered the best performance for the money. 
On occasion, we will find that one brand/variety of component is better than the ones we typically use, and other times they’re not really better or worse, just “different.” (losing something in one area while gaining in another area)
Then the next factor is cost-to-performance. Is the difference in price worth the gains being made? Not everyone is willing to pay $300+ for a single driver, capacitor or inductor, no matter how much better it may be than an equivalent $50 component.
All you do is bash manufacturers, do you have anything good to say?

Here’s the reality, all of the speakers we get sent are from customers who aren’t happy with the stock sound of their speaker. Based on a lot our testing, we can’t blame them either, many of the speakers we get in have several issues that should have been addressed during the early design/prototype phase, cheap components aside.

That said, absolutely, there are definitely some manufacturers who stand out. Spatial Audio Labs, Tyler Acoustics, Polk, ATC and Buchardt often produce quality products that are definitely worth a look and a listen.

When we find speakers with good bones, we definitely try to mention as much.

Are there speakers you can't fix?

We’ve had a fair number of speakers sent in that were full of issues; stored energy, breakup, ringing, edge diffraction, phase issues, comb filtering, port chuffing, etc. We’ve even had speakers that had fundamental design flaws. You name it, we’ve seen it in both cheap and high-end speakers over the years.

There are often things we can do to improve some of those speakers and fix some of their issues, but how many parts is it going to take to fix them, and does it make sense? Especially for a really cheap or really small speaker full of issues.

Sometimes it’s just not worth the customer’s time and cost to fix a speaker with so many issues. Especially when you’re getting into the price levels where you can just build one of our kits, which don’t have any of those issues to begin with and will easily outperform the bad speaker even after it’s been “fixed.”

Can you install your upgrades for me?
Unfortunately not. We don’t have the time or staff needed to build crossovers at this time. We send out a schematic for all our kits and upgrades with all the necessary components, wire etc to solder it together.
We do have two people on our forums who regulaely offer crossover assembly services for our customers, Elon & Frederick.
You can see some of their work at the links below:
What will it cost to upgrade my speakers?

We don’t know, we’re not psychic, so here is the deal, It’s like asking your mechanic how much it will cost to fix your car, but your car is back at home. He won’t know what’s wrong with it until its in the shop and he’s had time to look it over.

It’s the same with upgrading speakers.

In order for us to tell you anything about your speakers, we need one of them here. That means, you must ship one of them to us. 

If you want a rough estimate, look at the cost of upgrades for similar size or brand models. The bigger the speaker is, and more drivers (or issues) it has, it will cost more. A 3-way tower with 5 drivers will obviously cost more than a small 2-way bookshelf.

Plus you will need to factor in the shipping cost of the speaker to us and back to you, which also depends on the size/weight of the speaker. (The bigger it is, make sure it is well packed to avoid any damage in shipping.)

Why don't you measure below 200Hz?

There are a few reasons for this:

  1. We don’t own an anechoic chamber, so we use a gated time window of 4 milliseconds. This removes any & all room reflections from the measurement, giving us an anechoic measurement. However, the primary limitation is that it is only accurate to 200Hz. To accurately measure below 200Hz, you will need to take near-field measurements.
  2. Your room, your listening position and the speakers placement within your room will be a big influence on the sound of your speakers, especially below 200Hz, where room modes will dominate the response, creating dips & peaks. Room treatment is the only real means to remedy those kinds of issues.
  3. For our upgrade kits, the bass response is already determined by the manufacturer. Tuning for the bass of a speaker is determined via the driver, box size and any ports used when the manufacturer designed the speaker. We cannot change any of that. If there are issues, they were already present in the original speaker. Plus as frequencies get lower, the parts needed to make those adjustments only get larger and more expensive… so there’s no real means to fix it, just get a different speaker.
  4. For our own kits, we use the T/S parameters of the woofer(s) to calculate the necessary box volume and/or port dimensions needed for the desired tuning frequency. These calculations have been standard practice for determining the box size for a long time, and the effects of an over/undersized boxes are already known.
Can you upgrade my in-wall or in-ceiling speakers?

Unfortunately not. We simply dont have the necessary space to build such a large rig to test those kinds of speakers.

In-wall speakers requires a test bench that mimics the environment in which they are intended to be used, as the wall/ceiling is now just as much a part of the speaker as a box is for a traditional tower or bookshelf. They would measure very differently if they weren’t mounted into a wall, and trying to design a crossover in an open-air environment will only lead to poor results once it is finally mounted into the wall.

Such a test bench will need to be quite large, but also modular to accomodate for the wide varietly of different sizes and shapes that in-wall/ceiling speakers are made into.

I have an old speaker, can I just reuse the box with your drivers?
The short answer is no.
While it’s not exactly “rocket science”, it’s also not as easy as just popping in new drivers and have things work out as intended.
Here are several of the issues you will run into 99.9% of the time:
  • The drivers will not fit the holes already in the box.
  • The air space of the box may be too big or too small for the woofer(s) you want to use.
  • Port length is not tuned for our woofer in your box.

If by some chance, all of the new drivers do fit the old holes and the box is the right size:

  • The stock crossover doesn’t account for any differences in the electrical parameters or acoustic output of the new drivers.
  • Driver spacing, as well as cabinet size/shape will also affect the response.

It’s very much a classic “Cinderella” problem. (Looking for a “Cinderella” (driver) to perfectly fit your “slipper”(box))

Reality is, your best option is to find OEM replacements or harvest working drivers from a donor speaker, last option is start over.

Even with the speaker kits where we used our own drivers as replacements for the originals, the old crossover still needed to be completely re-designed to make them work together. Adapter rings also needed to be made to allow the woofers to fit over the old holes.

So unless you have the necessary tools and skills to work around all of those problems… you’re better off starting over.

When will you release another line-source speaker kit?

While we’re always thinking about ideas for new speaker kits, we don’t currently have any specific plans for another line-source speaker kit at this time.

Line-source speakers are very expensive to develop due to the number of drivers even 1 speaker requires, and may even require the development of custom drivers, further increasing development costs.

We’ve also got other big projects in the pipeline, but at some point in the future, we may revisit this speaker design.

What about the Line-Force speaker seen in some of your videos? 

When BG was bought out by Christie Digital, all of their drivers became unavailable to the OEM and retail markets. Any remaining drivers still on the market rapidly became much more expensive, so that project was ended with only a few units ever built.

We’ve looked at some alternative drivers and even having custom versions of the Neo 10 made, similar to our own GR Neo3 tweeters, but none of the prototypes or alternatives we have tested met our needs, especially since the PDR technology still under patent.

Radian’s new LM10 shows a lot of promise, but we don’t currently have any plans to design a new model around them at this time.

I want to use a high-pass filter on my system. Do you make them? What information do you need?

Unfortunately, we  do not make them.
However, we can get you the necessary information needed to make them.

There are 3 things we will need to know when helping you make a high-pass filter:

  • Input impedance of your power amp (typically between 10,000-100,000 ohm)
  • Desired -3dB roll-off point (Ex: 40Hz, 70Hz)
  • RCA or XLR

This will allow us to calculate the capacitor value needed for your desired roll off.
The values are quite small, and we always recommend getting the best quality capacitor you can as your entire signal is passing through this capacitor. We typically recommend copper-foil caps like Miflex KPCU03 or KFPM or from other notable brands like Deulund, Jupiter, V-Cap, etc depending on the sound you are shooting for.

Note:

If you change amplifiers, the capacitors will need to change as well.
The capacitor value will need to be adjusted according to the input impedance of the new amplifier.

High-pass filters cannot be used with integrated amplifiers. (Unless they are connected to a separate preamp or power amplifier(s))

AV-Receivers typically have a high-pass filter already built into them by setting the speaker size to “small.” Some my also offer edjustable roll off points. recommended range is 70-80Hz for bookshelf speakers, and 40-60Hz for large tower speakers.

For more information on high-pass filters, check out our page >>here<<

I've tried expensive cables and never heard a difference!

You may be right! But hold your horses…

There are may factors and variables that exist in a person’s setup. ALL of those factors play a part to determine what, when or if you’re going to be able to hear differences in your system.

Your speakers, source, gear, placement, room size/shape, room treatment, among many other factors all play a roll. Even the type and the quality of the music you listen to plays a big factor.

Say you’re using an old A/V receiver with some cheap or vintage speakers. The speakers are pushed against the walls in a large room with only basic home furnishings, with mostly bare walls & floor, and you listen exclusively to 70s rock and 80’s hairbands, it’s not likely that you’re going to hear much difference from better cables, regardless of spending $10, $100 or even $1000.
Such a setup isn’t bringing much to the table beyond room-filling sound. With so many bottlenecks, a lot of performance is being left on the table.

On the other hand, if you have some decent quality gear, using a quality integrated amp, or using some decent separate DAC, Pre and/or amp(s), some good quality speakers that are pulled away from the walls, in a lightly to moderately-treated room, and you listen to a wide variety of well-produced music, you will have a much better chance to notice even moderate differences in cables, gear, etc. As such, this system has fewer bottlenecks, allowing it to bring a lot more performance to the table, especially in terms of clarity, sounstage separation and layering. Even relatively small changes will be more apparent.

That said, “more expensive” doesn’t always mean better sound quality & vice versa.

Another factor is the construction of the cables themselves. While you might gat a nice boost in output going from 22 gauge to 16 gauge lamp cord, the difference in sound between 16 gauge and 12 gauge zip cord will be quite minor, as the only difference between them is the effective gauge of the wire being used. 

A cable made with multiple wires braided together or cables using a unique construction, (e.g. solid core vs stranded, shielding, twisted pairs/tri/quad, foil, specialty dielectrics, etc) are all going to be bringing different things to the table, as those differences in construction and materials will have an effect on the LCR (inductance, capacitance and resistance) values of one cable over another, and each unique variety of cable will then have a different effect on the signals that are passing through them.

Where you use high-quality cables in your system makes a difference too. You will often get bigger changes by upgrading the cables on/between source gear, like a DAC or Phono stage, than you will on power amps at the end of your chain. Essentially the cleaner the signal is kept from the source, the cleaner it will be after it’s amplified.

All of those little factors end up playing a big roll in your ability to hear the differences that good quality cables bring to the table.

We’ve perplexed visitors many times over by simply swapping out the USB cable wich connects to our DAC, or even reversing the direction of the FireWire cable connected to our external hard drive. Both of which create immediate and yet different effects to the sound of our system as a whole.

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